Been Sick...

Hey everyone...

I haven't posted for awhile because I came down with a bit of a secondary infection from my allergies. I'm on antibiotics and feeling better, but I've got some catching up to do. So I may not post until I'm back in the States, June 30.

Dublin, Day 7: Class

Today was our one and only class in Ireland. We don't have access to classrooms here, so it's a bit inconvenient to have class. Dr. Facinelli split up her classes into three sections and held class in her flat. It was sort of nice having a comfortable couch to sit on. Today we talked about the Irish struggle for independence and the continuing violence and trouble in Northern Ireland. It is amazing to me that people would murder others over something that seems so trivial. I remember reading about the Northern Ireland violence when I was a small child and being puzzled that Protestants and Catholics would kill each other. After all, they were all Christian, weren't they? Silly me, I didn't realize then how deep the divide between Christian groups could be.

At the end we listened to some songs about the violence in Ireland. Both repudiated the cycle of violence and retalition that has been going on for centuries. I was particularly moved by a song that told a true story about two friends, one Catholic, and one Protestant, who died due to the violence. The Catholic boy was actually murdered in retaliation for the killing of his Protestant friend.

That is insane and absurd. This is what happens when we humans begin to value our cause over the lives of other people. This is what happens when we feel the need to take revenge for the wrongs done to us. I think perhaps Gandhi was on to something when he commented, "An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth and the whole world would soon be blind and toothless."

Dublin, Day 6: No Gooooooaaaaal.

Having returned from Galway a bit late the night before, I spent a fair amount of the morning sleeping. In the afternoon, I went to the campus pub to watch the match between the USA and the Czech Republic. The US team put in a pretty poor showing. Their ball-handing skills looked pretty weak, and they weren't doing a very good job passing the ball to each other. They did get a bit better in the second half, and had some very close goals (including a heartbreaker that bounced off the goal frame). It was fun watching the match with the other students (and a professor, too...Dr. Facinelli was there).

Later that night, I went to a potluck organized by one of the honors students. It was very noisy, so I went back to my flat to get earplugs. I had a good time chatting with people and taking pictures of unsuspecting subjects. I guess my time on yearbook staff has given me a lasting compulsion to take candid rather than posed shots. After awhile, the party moved outside, where I tossed around a frisbee with some of the other students (and tried to teach Sam to throw one). Unfortunately, Sam was hit pretty hard in the chest with a frisbee at one point (I guess that person will be failing Dr. Bruhn's class!) After he was done crying, he came up to me and vigorously acted out his traumatic injury, to the point of grabbing the frisbee and bonking himself with it. It was cute. Fortunately, he wasn't badly injured at all.

An amusing aside: Sam seems to like hitting himself in the forehead with various objects. I think his parents need to teach him the Latin chant from Monty Python and the Holy Grail with those monks who are walking around and hitting themselves with boards.

Eventually, we had to break the party up because it was quiet hours. That was good, because I needed to sleep. But judging from all the yelling I heard outside later that night, some of the other students didn't.

Dublin, Day 5: Galway

When we woke up Sunday morning, we were treated to a delicious breakfast consisting of homemade pancakes, fruit, yogurt, and cereal. We were served by the husband, who told us that he sometimes went to the States to perform as an Elvis impersonator in Tennessee. Their bed and breakfast also once hosted a member of the Massachusetts state legislature, who later sent them an award from the legislature for being the best hospitality in Galway. They have the certificate hanging in the hall.

After packing our bags, we headed off to catch the bus that would take us on a tour around the Galway area. We drove through the Burren mountains, a series of limestone hills which were once underwater (as evidenced by all the fossilized sea creatures that could be found in that area). The hills are quite pretty--rocks covered with grass, wildflowers, and shrubs. There were many rock walls dividing the land into pens and marking property boundaries. They were "dry walls," built without mortar. We stopped for a bit near the shore to take pictures, then continued on to the Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs rise hundreds of feet above the ocean. I commented to one of the other students that they looked a bit like the Cliffs of Insanity from the Princess Bride. I just looked at the Wikipedia article for the Cliffs of Moher, and it turns out that the Princess Bride was in fact filmed there. How funny.

I stayed behind the wall, since I really preferred to avoid the risk of falling to my death just so I could get a better view. The view I did get was actually quite good. The cliffs sort of curve around, and they go on down the shore for quite a ways, so there was plenty to see. Nesting birds were visible as tiny white specks on the cliffs, and the birds flying around near the cliffs looked more like a swarm of gnats than a flock of birds.

After the Cliffs of Moher, we visited an ancient burial ground. There was a stone monument (dolmen) not unlike those at Stonehenge. The bodies in the burial ground have been carbon dated to about 5,000 years ago. Following that, we reached the Aillwee Cave, one of the many caves in the limestone rock of the Burren. The cave is known for the discovery of the bones of a brown bear, an animal that had been extinct in Ireland for hundreds of years. The cave wasn't really that exciting. I've been in far more interesting caves. The highlight of our cave tour was when one of the students paid another student to ask a stupid question. At the beginning of our tour, the guide told us all that it was a natural cave. A few minutes later, the student asked, "When were these caves built?" The poor guide, a bit nonplussed, replied that the caves hadn't been built: they were natural. The rest of us spent the next few minutes cracking up.

On our way back to Galway, we stopped at one of the many castles dotting the landscape. After a brief photo opportunity, we continued back to the city.


The Burren area was incredibly beautiful and full of Irish history. I highly recommend that anyone who goes to Ireland make a trip to Galway and see the surrounding area.

But don't bother with the cave, unless you have a thing for bears.

Dublin, Day 4: Galway

A group of eight students, including me, made an overnight trip to Galway this past weekend. Galway is on the western coast of Ireland (Dublin is on the eastern side of the country). We road over on a coach (a nice bus); it took about three and a half hours. I was tired from getting up so early, and I slept most of the time. When we reached Galway, we set about searching for the Bed and Breakfast that Ben (the student who coordinated most of the trip) had booked. The place was called Dun Roamin, and it appears that the older Irish couple who runs it had simply turned their house into a bed and breakfast. The owners of Dun Roamin were extremely friendly, asking us where we were from and what our plans were.

After checking in and setting down our luggage, we went to the nearby beach. It was surprisingly warm. Even the water wasn't completely ice-cold, though it wasn't suitable for swimming, either. It was, however, extremely windy. We wandered around the beach a bit, took pictures, and dipped our toes in the water. Then we walked back to the Bed and Breakfast before setting off for downtown Galway. One of the things I liked about the place that we stayed was its proximity to the city center. It was about a 15 minute walk.

Downtown Galway is a wonderful place to walk around. There's a small park, and a section where the roads are pedestrian-only. There are a number of shops, pubs, and restaurants. One of the first things we saw as we entered that part of town was several guys carrying a really drunk man on their shoulders. He was wearing England colors, and they had just won their World Cup match, so perhaps that was why he was drunk. There were many street performers around, some good, some not so good, and some downright awful. One group had a small kid along with them, and he was singing into an amplifier. Off-key singing is cute and endearing when it's a small group of kids all singing without amplification. This was just grating. We also saw some guys playing music and doing some sort of combination fake fighting and dancing.

We wandered in and out of shops in the area. Most of the girls wanted to shop for clothes in the bigger clothes stores, which I don't quite understand. Why use up valuable time and money shopping for clothes when you can do it back home? I've been trying not to buy anything that I can get easily in the States, since it's probably cheaper due to the currency conversion rate, and I won't have to lug it home in my suitcase. I did pick up a nice Ireland T-shirt at a souvenir store, but besides the stamps I've bought, that's about it. The pictures I've taken will be my souvenirs. Still, the downtown area was quite fun. I'd love to go back to Galway sometime.

As the evening progressed, it got pretty cold. I hadn't dressed warmly enough, so I headed back to the bed and breakfast to put everyone's purchases away and change my clothes. Alas, I wrapped myself up in a blanket, intending to warm myself up for a few minutes...and promptly fell asleep until I was awakened by everyone coming back around midnight. I was a bit bummed about missing the traditional Irish dancing and music at the pub, but I'm not sure how much I would have enjoyed it. I saw a video of the girls dancing, and it looked extremely crowded and noisy, which I don't tolerate well. Shannon (one of the students) even ended up with Guinness spilled in her hair.

To be continued...

Dublin, Day 3

I didn't really do much on Friday. I slept in, and in the evening I played some football with the other students outside. Sam was out there, too. He's apparently a bit picky about the people he'll play with. At one point he told me he couldn't play because I was a girl, and he also told another student that he was too small to play. There's something hilariously ironic about a three-foot-tall four year old telling an adult that he's too small.

Dublin, Day 2: Lost in Dublin

Well, not completely lost. I just had a few difficulties getting around. I went into Dublin to see the sights. I hopped on the bus to the city center, hoping to get to the tourist office. Unfortunately, I was slightly confused as to where the tourist office was, and I wasn't sure when to get off. I spent my time staring out the window, hoping to see some sign that would tell me where I was and where I needed to go. After about 45 minutes or so, I finally saw a sign for the tourist center. I pushed the button to signal the driver. Unfortunately, the stop wasn't nearby, so I had to walk for awhile after getting off. I arrived at the center and bought a map of Dublin so I wouldn't get lost again. Using the map, I headed off to see the General Post Office.

Why the post office? you might ask. As it turns out, the GPO was the site of an Irish rebellion against British rule in 1916. The 1916 Easter Rising was one of the events that united the Irish people in their desire to be free. The original building was destroyed, but the columns in front remain, bullet holes and all. The post office has several plaques, photographs, and other items relating to the uprising. There is a statue of the Irish hero Cuchulainn in the window. The GPO also has a philatelic store, which is exciting for me because I collect stamps (though I haven't really been actively collecting since I've been in college). I bought a first day cover of a stamp featuring the GPO; the envelope commemorated the Easter Rising. (A first day cover is an envelope with a stamp cancelled on the first date of issue. Usually the cancellation is decorative and relates to the stamp; the envelope is usually decorated with the stamp's theme as well).

That evening, I went with a group of honors students to check out the pubs downtown. We were looking for some traditional Irish music and maybe some dancing. Unfortunately, the music in the pub we went to wasn't all that exciting. It was just a guy playing a guitar. My friends wanted to stay out late, particularly as one of the students was hanging out with some American students he met on the continent during one of his side trips. They would be going back to the States the next morning, so he wanted to spend some time with them. We ended up staying past the time of the last bus, and so we began searching for the night bus, which runs later and on a different route. We finally found the stop after much searching, but while we were there, a man walking by stopped us and suggested that we just share a cab and split the fare--the night bus costs 4 euros, and it would be cheaper to take the cab. We agreed that this would be the best plan, and the man proceeded to hail some cabs for us. The people in Dublin (and the rest of Ireland I've been to) seem to be extremely friendly.

Dublin, Day 1: Settling In

Not much happened on my first day in Dublin. We packed up to leave, then bid a fond farewell to London and a not-so-fond farewell to the Albert Hotel. We had a bit of an adventure trying to get all 70 or so ASU students checked in, but fortunately we arrived pretty early. The flight was short--only about an hour.

When we arrived in Ireland, the thing that struck me the most was that the signs all had Gaelic as well as English. I wasn't sure if this was just at the airport, but having seen more of the country, it's clear that this is a bilingual nation. Gaelic is everywhere. I've learned a few words just by reading signs. Amach is exit, aras (with an accent on the first A) is building, bialann is restaurant, Atha Cliath is Dublin, an lar is city center, garda refers to the police (gardai is plural), slan is goodbye, etc. It also seems that the adjective may come after the verb, as in Spanish (and probably a bunch of other languages--Spanish is just what I'm familiar with). At the very least, the UCD restaurant sign also says "Bialann UCD".

Our housing here at University College Dublin is pretty nice. We all have flats with a kitchen, common room, and bathrooms, as well as our own private bedroom. It's nice to have my own space and a kitchen conveniently nearby. Also, I like climbing just two flights of stairs instead of about six. There's a grassy area just outside, and I've tossed around a frisbee and kicked around a football with some of the other students. I'm rooming with two of the communications girls, who are pretty cool. I've really been enjoying getting to know them. The one disadvantage of our housing is the location. UCD is pretty far from the city center -- it's a 20 minute bus ride, and the busses only run until 11:30 pm.

The first night we got here, we ate dinner at the restaurant on campus. Later that evening, I went to the on-campus pub with my roommates. We played some pool. Unfortunately, the balls were smaller than ones you'd normally see in the States, and they didn't move as I expected them to. Also, they weren't numbered and only had red and yellow. After making some jokes about how the balls in Ireland are smaller, we attempted to play. It took us a really long time to finish the game because we couldn't hit anything in.

I wonder if getting drunk would actually help?

London, Day 22: Tower of London

On our last full day in London, we received tickets to visit the Tower of London. It's not a single tower, but rather an entire castle, complete with walled grounds. It sits on the River Thames. It was built in 1066 by William the Conqueror, though many of the buildings are newer than that.

The Tower is infamous as a place where prisoners were held and frequently executed. In fact, there is a river gate called the Traitor's Gate where those convicted of treason (it seems to me that sometimes this simply meant that you had annoyed the monarch) were taken into the Tower. I viewed the site where some of the prisoners had been executed. There's really nothing there today but a grassy patch. A sign nearby indicates that the keepers of the Tower would like to put up a memorial. I wonder if this is a result of Britain's anti-death penalty stance; I'm not sure I would expect to see a proposed memorial to executed criminals in the States, even if it's likely they were not guilty.

The tower is also known as the place where the Crown Jewels are kept. Outside the Jewel Tower is a guard just like the ones at Buckingham Palace. However, I was able to get much closer to this guard than to the ones at the palace. Inside the Jewel Tower, I saw a number of crowns, scepters, and other fancy royal items made with precious metals and gems. One of the more interesting items I saw was a gold punch bowl the size of a birdbath. (Alas, photography was not permitted in the Jewel Tower). I have to wonder if it's hollow or not gold all the way through. Otherwise, I can't see how they would move it. On seeing all the gold, silver, and other sparkly things, I found myself understanding why the Vikings went on raids. Wouldn't it be fun to smash the glass and run off with all the pretty, shiny things? I sure think so. Of course, I don't want to get all the British people mad at me, so I suppose I will have to refrain.

Other parts of the Tower I viewed included the Medieval section of the Tower, which displayed a recreation of the bedchamber of one of the kings who stayed there; the raven pens, which are kept because of a legend which states that as long as ravens remain at the Tower, the kingdom will be safe; a bit of the old Roman wall; and the White Tower, the main tower in the complex, which houses a number of artifacts and an old Norman chapel. One of the amusing artifacts is King Henry VIII's armor. It's difficult to see because of the flash on the glass, but that section of the armor is, er, large. When Dr. Facinelli said that the armor makes clear he thought well of himself, I thought she meant that the armor was very elegant and decorated. It turns out that instead of fancy decorations, there's just a softball-sized bulge.

I took a walk around the outside of the Tower. There's a lovely view of the Thames and the Tower Bridge, which is what we think of when we think of the "London Bridge," which doesn't look nearly as cool as the Tower Bridge.

On my way home, I stopped at the King's Cross train station. In particular, I was there to see Platform 9 3/4. This platform doesn't actually exist, except in the Harry Potter books. It's the platform from which the train to Hogwarts Castle leaves. It looks like a brick wall, and the young witches and wizards have to walk through the seemingly-solid wall to get to the platform. In homage to the series, King's Cross set up a Platform 9 3/4 with a bit of a luggage cart sticking out of it.

I think it's great that the British have enough of a sense of humor to make a reference to a children's book at a train station.

London, Day 21: Tea

Tea has been an honored English tradition for some time. So, naturally, I wanted to have some tea and scones before I left London. I went to the Orangery, a fancy establishment in Kensington Gardens near the palace. There were several options on the menu. I chose one that included a cucumber and cream cheese sandwich, a scone with clotted cream and strawberry jam, a slice of carrot cake, and of course, tea. I chose Earl Grey because it's my favorite sort of English tea. Why? Well, I like the slightly fruity taste...and Captain Picard drinks it. I have yet to adopt Captain Janeway's predilection for coffee, however.

By the way, doesn't clotted cream sound like something you wouldn't want to eat? It's actually pretty good, though. Seems like a cross between butter and whipped cream. Delicious!

London, Day 20: Museum of London

On Sunday evening, I went to the Museum of London, which has exhibits on the history of the city. I went because Dr. Facinelli offered an extra credit opportunity. All we had to do is pick a few exhibits and write a paper about them. I saw a variety of artifacts from the Roman Londinium, as well as from the medieval times and the Elizabethan era. It wasn't all that interesting. At least it was free.

London, Day 19: Everything *and* the Kitchen Sink

One of the fun aspects of London is all the theater (or theatre) shows. In fact, you can tell which shows are going on in London because they're all advertised in the tube stations. There are posters lining the escalators. It's quite amusing, actually, and they're pretty effective. The people riding the escalators are a captive audience, and a large percentage of Londoners ride the tube every day. I would imagine the percentage of tourists with money and time on their hands is even higher.

So, Saturday afternoon I went to see Stomp. It's a group of eight people who make rhythmic music using anything but actual musical instruments. They use brooms (sweeping and hitting the wooden parts against the stage to make different sounds), trash cans, differing lengths of pipe, and yes, portable sinks full of water. They hit various cups and bowls while dumping the water out in order to make the pitch go up. One particularly cool piece involved all eight of them lined up, holding cigarette lighters. The lights were off, and they flicked on the lighters, making both a visual and aural pattern. It was lovely.

Stomp isn't just about the sound. There' s a great deal of choreography. In one piece, they sat in metal folding chairs which they hit, shuffled, and shut. At one point, they stood in a circle and slid their chairs around to each other. It was impressive. The show was funny, too. Although there was no talking, there were quite a few amusing facial expressions. And one member of the troupe played the part of the person nobody respected. At one point, some sand was thrown on the stage so the troupe could shuffle around in it to make sounds. But the sand thrower ran out before he got to her, and dropped just a pinch below her feet. So she started brushing some sand from the guy next to her, but he glared and then drew a line in the sand between them.

I have to say that I was amazed at the coordination and talent of the performers. Sure, I can hit a five-gallon water bottle to make interesting noises. But to co-ordinate five people at once to make a variety of pitches into a coherent rhythm is astonishing.

London, Day 18: Covent Garden

Friday afternoon, I went to Covent Garden. It's an area of town well known for its large open-air market. I wandered around, looking at all the booths selling arts and crafts. Silk scarves seem to be a popular item in London. I guess it must be because it's so cold and windy here. There were also some lovely photographs, which I was tempted to buy. I think I'll just stick with mine, though. I've got hundreds already, and the trip's just half over. There were permanent shops around the edge of the market, selling all sorts of goods. I bought a few fresh peaches at one of the vendors. I spent a fair amount of time watching the entertainers in the market. I saw a group performing classical music with strings and a flute or two. I also saw the classic juggling/unicycle type entertainer--the sort who can do all sorts of amazing tricks of coordination and usually have a funny patter to go with it. That's him up above, trying to get on his unicycle.

On my way back to the tube, I saw two guys who were acting as statues. They'd painted themselves and their clothing to look like stone. I had to post a larger version of one of the pictures because it was so cute--the one at the beginning of my post is of a little girl and the "statue" punching hands.

London, Day 17: Nothing Exciting

I went to class. Then I took a nap. Then I ate dinner. Then I slept.